Bald Mountains, TN/NC

First, allow me to apologize for the delay in this post. I’ve done my best to dutifully stick to my Thursday posts every week, but life is what happens when you’re busy making plans. I suppose it’s naïve to think I can keep up the weekly posts ad infinitum, so don’t be surprised if I miss a week – as I shouldn’t have been.

Sunday before last, I chose to hike a brief portion of the Appalachian Trail on the border of Greene County, TN and Madison County, NC. The Bald Mountains run along the TN/NC border east of Greeneville, TN and I began my hike northeast of Camp Creek Bald, a prominent mountain in the area. The AT faithfully follows the ridgeline, passing by cliffs on either side of the main ridge. The first set of cliffs - Blackstaff Cliffs - are easily seen from the terminus of Viking Mountain Rd.

Blackstaff Cliffs

As I began my hike, I was awkwardly followed by a group of conservative Mennonites from southern Illinois. I prefer to hike alone, that’s why I typically hike more secluded, remote routes. But whenever I come upon other hikers, I let them pass by – but the group of 5 or 6 Mennonites wouldn’t pass. For about a quarter mile, they stayed about 200 feet behind me. I would stop, they would stop. I would start again, and so would they. They matched my pace, no matter how fast or slow. After 20 minutes of awkwardness, I walked up to the group and introduced myself. The oldest male member was the only one to speak, but they all seemed very friendly – we quickly concluded a discussion of the foliage and weather among a fascinating array of topics, and I resumed my hike off-trail until they had passed.

Off-trail, I found myself in a dense patch of shrubbery and laurel. I bushwhacked my way to the bottom of Blackstack Cliffs, but couldn’t find a route to the top that didn’t require climbing. So I backtracked a bit and made my way back to the AT. Finding the trail all to myself, it wasn’t much farther to the narrow spur trail which leads to the top of the cliffs.

The view west from the top of Blackstaff Cliffs

After returning to the AT, it’s another mile or so of steady hiking until it becomes “Exposed Ridgeline Trail” and traverses Firescald Knob. After winding beneath rock ledges and through dense laurel hells, the trail climbs out of the shaded depths of the ridgeline and emerges onto a rocky trail providing 360-degree views of the region.



The winds were pretty strong...

This is at maximum-zoom for my camera - you can barely make out Mt. LeConte in the Smokies on the horizon.

The views were amazing. The skies were cloudless, with only a slight haze obscuring views at the horizon. The leaves were near peak color and the strong winds along the knife-like ridge dried the sweat on my face. I hiked along Firescald Ridge until it descended into seclusion again, turned around, and traced my steps back along the AT.

I hiked all the way back to the spur trail for Blackstaff Cliffs, and took a similar trail on the opposite side of the AT which descended a ridge into NC. I was looking for the trail to Whiterock Cliffs and made an educated guess that this trail was correct; it was. My “educated” guesses usually end with disappointment and a difficult bushwhack. The trail climbed down precarious outcrops, finally terminating just beyond Whiterock Cliffs. The views were great and it’s always exciting to find a secluded spot on a rock from which you can’t see anything man-made. Miles and miles of wilderness.



Whiterock Cliffs



No matter where I hike in the region, it’s difficult to find a spot where you can’t see a road or a house or a power-line. Most scenic views have been tainted with the proximity of man’s creation, and it’s often my goal to reach places in the southern Appalachians where one can still find the solitude enjoyed by early settlers. Mission accomplished.

Thanks for reading!