"I only went out for a walk and finally concluded to stay out till sundown; for going out, I found, was really going in." - John Muir
Monday, June 2, 2014
Thursday, May 29, 2014
Wilderness Falls, TN
I
recently learned something interesting – scientists estimate that nearly 80% of
the species on earth have yet to be “discovered”. For every creature you can
name, there are four out there undisturbed by human classification.
The
world is huge. So large that the human mind can’t really conceive of how big it
is; at least not without scientific notation and calculations of astronomical
scale. There are over 7 billion people on Earth, yet every human could fit,
shoulder-to-shoulder, in the Los Angeles metropolitan area. With that in mind,
it’s no surprise that a sizable proportion of our planet remains unexplored.
Tracts of land untrodden, valleys unseen. Siberia. Antarctica. The Sahara. The Amazon.
On each continent lie regions so remote, so inhospitable, so inaccessible, that
modern humans have yet to perceive their splendor.
Our
region isn’t an exception. Though not nearly as inhospitable as the Sahara or
inaccessible as the Amazon, our terrain is rough. Our mountains are steep. Our
forests are dense. Our wildlife can be combative. And despite our relatively
high population density compared to the world average, and especially that of
those regions noted above, there are still wonders to be found.
I
recently read of a waterfall here in northeast TN that was undocumented until a
few years ago, and unknown even to the Forest Service. Wilderness Falls, as it’s
so appropriately named, cascades from a towering rock cliff on the back of Rich
Mountain. This NW face of Rich Mountain is rich
in waterfalls – I’ve visited 6 significant ones myself (including this one) – and
if someone hasn’t already checked each creek flowing from Rich Mountain for a
waterfall, then we need to get started.
Despite
this waterfall’s notoriety for being so elusive for so long, it’s readily accessible,
especially compared to other waterfalls but a few miles away. So over Memorial
Day weekend, with an extra day off work, I set out to see what had been unseen
for so long.
My
hike that day began at the Longarm Branch trailhead off of Clarks Creek Rd. –
my gifted readers will recognize this as the access point for the falls of
Devil Fork, Pine Ridge and Josiah Falls included, and so I was pleasantly
familiar with the area. Normally, I would take the spur trail that splits from
Longarm Branch Trail after ¼-mile, but my route took me deeper into the Longarm
Branch watershed. I had high hopes for high water that day – we had received
rain the day prior and a torrential downpour graced my drive to the trailhead.
Alas, as I approached my parking area, the morning sun was burning away the
clouds and blue skies could be seen above. Though a beautiful, blessed day, it
wasn’t advantageous for the water-level I had wanted or the photography
conditions I prefer.
So disappointing |
Nonetheless,
undaunted by the pleasant day ahead, I trudged on toward the waterfall. The
higher I climbed into the valley, the more slight Longarm Branch became. Given
that it’s much larger than its tributaries, I wasn’t hopeful for a good show.
After 30 minutes or so of leisurely hiking, I came to the junction of the two
creeks.
The
hollow from which the Creek flowed was as steep and narrow as I had assumed –
so rugged, in fact, I wasn’t sure how best to proceed. The Creek flowed through
a chasm in the trail, which I detoured several feet down to creek-level to
cross, and then it poured through a large drain-pipe presumably left from the
logging this area once supported. At creek-level, I slowly climbed into the water
and delicately moved upstream.
It
didn’t take me long to get wet nor to realize how harsh of a creek I was hiking.
The first 50 feet of the creek was a series of small waterfalls, cascades
dropping the water through natural half-pipes of rock and a tunnel of laurel.
The sun had just begun to touch the hollow that morning, and the fog, trapped
by the vegetation, had just started to lift. I climbed into the giant pipe
formed by the surrounding rock and plants, both to photograph the scene before
the water from the earlier rain had run its course and to rest up before the
predictably grueling hike ahead.
Once
I left my seat on a cool, moss-shrouded rock, I noted a small trail ascending
the ridge to the left of the Creek. I didn’t know if it was human- or animal-made,
but it was a clearing heading in the right direction, so I didn’t argue. After
a few hundred feet of climbing straight uphill (I didn’t say it was very well
designed), the trail dumped me up onto an old logging road, scattered with
small brush and a relief. I knew the difficult section of the hike would be
climbing into and navigating the steep hollow – in my experience, if it looks
steep on a topographical map, then you’re really in for a treat – so I welcomed
the old road for as far as it would take me.
The
road roughly followed the creek its entire route, staying 10-20 feet above at
all times. It appeared to end as it descended to creek level at ¼-mile, where a
much narrower trail picked up the route across the creek. The trail, which was
barely that, wasn’t easy to follow – truth-be-told, I simply kept the creek the
same distance to my left and continually found and lost the trail.
The
trail eventually faded into the width of the Creek’s course, and though much
clearer of brush and debris, the hollow had become much steeper. The ground was
scattered with rocks of all sizes which made for clumsy hiking. The farther I
hiked, the steeper was the hiking, and I could see the Creek falling from increasingly
higher levels as I advanced.
Making
my way upstream was an exercise in balance and creativity. Though the floor of
the gorge was comparatively wide, the ridges on either side were steep and
slippery. My best bet, though cumbersome, was the route directly up the
creek-bed. Though I had been cursing the lack of water all morning, I could
sense that the route I had chosen would be barely wade-able, and certainly not
walkable, in high-water. The grade of the creek was such that the majority was
one continuous waterfall – a long, complex cascade. Once I could see the impressive
rock cliff of Wilderness Falls in the distance, it was difficult to judge where
the waterfall ended and the course of the creek resumed.
The
terrain directly below the waterfall is as gorgeous as it is rugged. Many small
waterfalls drop several feet at its base, and the ascent had become more of a
climb than a hike. I could see water spraying off the open rock face in the
distance – so with my poor eyesight, I was close – but the bottom of the cliff
was still far above my route within the creek. I had some climbing to do.
Despite
the caution with which I approached the climb, it was difficult. Given the rock
drop-offs within the creek-bed – some flowing with water, others simply moist –
I chose a route along the northern ridge. The rain the night before and earlier
that morning may not have been enough to produce impressive waterfalls, but it was
certainly enough to impede my climbing. Rocks along the ridge were loose and
unreliable; the ground was soaked and oozed out from my grip; moisture-loving
critters – more millipedes, centipedes, slugs, and snails than I had ever seen –
covered most surfaced or sprang to life from small mudslides. With every few
feet I advanced, I would slide back down, bugs tumbling onto my head and
shoulders. It was a mess, but I slowly made it to the base of the falls.
The
cliff and the water flowing from its top were impressive – it’s surprising such
a spectacle had gone undiscovered (or perhaps forgotten) for so long. I was
disappointed that there wasn’t more of a show, as I could tell that the falls
would be marvelous at full-force. Alas, that vision will come in time.
I sat
at the base of the falls for a while, allowing the diminished mist to cool me
from the late morning mugginess. I looked down the hollow at the impassable
creek-bed well beneath me and thought, Now
how do I get down?
Over
an hour later, I slogged into Diana’s parents’ restaurant in Erwin for lunch and a pre-shower respite (Toby’s CafĂ©– go get a burger). Diana’s mom noted, “Hey
Ben, your butt’s wet.” ...That’s how I got down.
Thanks
for reading!
Friday, May 23, 2014
Rattlesnake Ridge, TN
We have an interesting cultural
interpretation of rain. Many movies include rain at the most dramatic moments –
and while the rain can be symbolic of many things, it adds a flair that’s
otherwise missing. It heightens intensity. It dramatizes the most theatrical
scenes.
*Swoon* |
Be it
a scene written with drama in mind or an ordinary hike, rain adds excitement. I’ve
always loved playing in the rain, not minding the inconvenience of wet
clothes. From one of my first flag-football games, when the parents retreated
to their cars and the cheerleaders ran squealing to the concessions stand, to
these blog posts appealing to my vanity, I relish the chance for rain to make
me feel cooler (pun intended).
Excited
at the forecast of rain a couple of weeks ago, I set out to hike a portion of
Rattlesnake Ridge below Unaka Mountain. Starting from Rock Creek Park in Erwin,
my plan wasn’t as formal as usual – I had several destinations in mind, and the
one I would choose would depend solely on my mood mid-hike. It had been raining
off-and-on for a few days, and I had hopes to visit the waterfalls of Dicks
Creek if the water-level was high enough for decent pictures. Alternatively, I
could hike farther up Rattlesnake Ridge to an off-trail route atop a spur-ridge
– as I had seen on a few maps, the ridge-top had a long, exposed section.
The
forecast of rain had my blood pumping, and a constant drizzle fell on ym way to
the park. Once I reached the parking area near the trailhead, the rain had
stopped. I was left with the mugginess without the excitement.
My
hike that day was more tiring than normal – my winter-ready body wasn’t
prepared for the humidity, and each step felt like I was walking through a warm
pool. Though the clouds were calm, my clothes were soaked within half-an-hour
of easy hiking. The trail along the edge of the park’s campground is level, but
once you cross a footbridge and onto Rattlesnake Ridge proper, it becomes more
strenuous. The grade is slight, interspersed with short, steep jaunts, but
humidity strangled my already labored breathing and made things that much more
difficult. Just short of a mile, I stopped for a quick break on a tree that had
fallen across the trail.
As I
sat and caught my breath, I unsheathed my knife and playfully chopped into the
branches of the dead pine. To my delight, the woody flesh within was rich with
resin and had the distinct smell and color of quality fatwood – great tinder
material. Excited, I removed my axe from my pack and replenished my supply. Hey,
you never know.
After
15 minutes of resting my aching knees and collecting fatwood, I hit the trail
again. The forest was alive with colors and fragrances, amplified by the recent
rains. With the humidity, the moisture soaking my clothes from trailside brush,
and distant birds of all species chirping wildly, it felt like I was traipsing through
a tropical rainforest.
After
nearly a mile of hiking uphill, I reached Dicks Creek gap and its crossroads of
trails. The road directly in front of me descends down to Dicks Creek, the road
to the left is ominously marked “Dark Hollow”, and the trail to the right is
the continuation of Rattlesnake Ridge trail. On the hike up, I noted that Rock
Creek and the surrounding streams weren’t as voluminous as I had hoped – and so
I concluded a trip to either of the falls on Dicks Creek wouldn’t be worth my
time. Instead, I chose to continue up Rattlesnake Ridge in hopes of reaching the
exposed spur.
Rattlesnake Ridge trail extends all the way to the top of Unaka Mountain, to the Pleasant Garden overlook, and provides a beautiful hike through changing greenery and wild scenery. My hike along the trail only lasted another quarter-mile, at which point I went off trail toward my destination. Within a few feet of hiking off-trail, the brush became nearly impenetrable – a sign of things to come. I blindly pushed and clawed my way up the spur ridge, stopping only at the top.
Once
atop the ridge, I knew I was in the right place. The peak at the top was very
rocky, and occasional crags exposed themselves from the dense underbrush. I
began to move south, down the edge of the ridge toward the exposed section I
had seen on maps. My route took me below the rocks on the eastern side, but the
briars quickly became too thick to overcome. I studied the terrain and decided
to take my chances at the very top of the ridge, hopping from exposed rock to
exposed rock.
My
plan worked for a long distance – better than I expected, really. But after so
far, the rocks became larger as did the gaps between them, and I not only had
to deal with climbing up and down these outcroppings but through the tangled
messes between them. The briars and heath shrubs tore me (and my clothes) to
shreds. Two weeks later, I still have the cuts.
Despite
the blood and frustration, I pressed on, and the exposed sections became larger
and larger, until I reached a seemingly impassible rock buttress. I could see
the largest-yet exposed section beyond it, but this giant rock – with sheer
faces all around and a thicket of briars and trees on top – was quite the
obstacle. My excitement to reach my destination fueled my strength and
ingenuity to do so. I cinched down everything I could and carefully scaled the
side of the rock, clutching the strained branches of a pine tree overhead.
After one last leap to a level rock, I was there. With the tree-tops below me,
I had unimpeded views of the southern portion of the Unaka ridgeline and
beyond.
Rattlesnake Ridge |
Once
I had snapped a few pictures and recovered from the shock of the magnificent
views, I became aware of how menacing the clouds all around me had become. I’m
often surprised at how quickly clouds can move, especially in the mountains,
and the erratic movement of the sky that day had me unsettled. I hadn’t felt a
drop of rain since I parked at Rock Creek Park – much to my previous
disappointment – but a few sprinkles fell on my face as I snapped pictures as
quickly as possible. I knew the rain I had been wanting would soon come in
excess.
With
a few cracks of thunder and the wind knocking me off balance on the exposed
precipice, I knew it was time to leave. I stashed my camera deep in my pack,
dug out my pack-cover, and started my way back to where I had left Rattlesnake
Ridge trail. Within a few dozen feet, the sky opened up. In seconds, I was
drenched.
I
scrambled through the brush more easily on the return – the driving rain had
tamped the briars and made them slick. It was still rough-going, but at least
the rain quickly washed away the blood. The wind blew the rain in every
direction, and it was difficult to see. I dropped off the top of the ridge, below
the rocks, and moved slowly, keeping my bearings by the rocks.
I
finally reached the top of the ridge where I had ascended from Rattlesnake
Ridge Trail, and just in time – the rain and wind were at the height of their
ferocity, and I was struggling to breath in the dense rain from my final quick
jaunt to the end of the ridge. I collapsed beneath a rock overhang that
shielded only a portion of the deluge, but it was enough for the respite I needed.
Despite my heart pounding, arms leaking, legs screaming, I smiled at the thought
of how much fun I was having.
As I
gathered myself to descend to the calmer trail below, I noticed a tree that had
fallen long ago adjacent to the rock under which I was licking my wounds.
Beneath the tree, I could see an old National Forest boundary sign mangled
beneath it – knowing this sign had passed its purpose, I removed my axe and
quickly stowed the sign in my pack as a keepsake.
I
surprised myself by returning to the exact point where I had deviated from the trail
before (I marked it with a blaze) – it’s a shame my memory and sense of direction
doesn’t apply to large parking lots. The hike back down to Dicks Creek Gap and
Rock Creek Park was uneventful; the rain slowed with each step I hiked down the ridge, and by the time I returned to the trail beside the campground, it
appeared as if the park itself hadn’t seen a drop of rain. As I slogged toward my 4Runner, I passed a few
campground hikers who seemed shocked at my appearance – I imagine I looked
almost as rough as the terrain that had just man-handled me. Soaked, torn clothes
hanging from my limbs, clinging to my core; blood seeping from my arms; my
hair, long overdue for a trim, matted and wild; body aching, yet smile beaming.
Thanks for reading!
Thanks for reading!
Thursday, May 8, 2014
The Waterfalls of Devil Fork, TN
My conversational style can
best be described as tangential. My interactions are sprinkled with “That
reminds me…” and “By the way…”. In all things, I tend to wander, and hiking is
no exception.
I often set out with an often
far-too-ambitious destination in mind, and it doesn’t take much to stay me from
my intended path. An overgrown spur trail leading nowhere. The roar of an
out-of-sight creek with no waterfall. A big shadow impersonating a cave. My ADD
(check your DSM-V for Adventure Distraction Disorder, it’s
there) has led to more incomplete hikes than I can count.
But every so often, I stumble
onto something special. I have to laugh at how clumsy though blessed my
adventures can become, and the hike featured in today’s post was certainly a
blessing.
For the first time in well over
a year, I found myself with a Sunday afternoon by myself. Without the
moderating influence of a sensible woman, I degrade into some sort of masculine
wreck – I either eat an irresponsible amount of food, or find myself
irresponsibly in the middle of a wilderness. That particular afternoon, I did
both.
On a full stomach, I started a
hike up Devil Fork in the Clark’s Creek area of Unicoi County. The rugged and
beautiful area has several waterfalls, some easily accessible and others deeply
remote. The four waterfalls along Devil Fork are impressive, as the creek
tumbles down the complex western slope of Rich Mountain in spectacular fashion.
I had visited the first waterfall before, Pine Ridge Falls, and it’s a level,
10-minute hike that’s quickly traversed.
Advancing beyond the 25-foot
waterfall, however, is a delicate task – the only direct route is along a very
narrow (and very slick) series of small ledges to the right of the falls. The
water level was high that day and the residual moisture from recent rains left
the whole area far more slippery than I like– 250lbs. falls hard.
I wasted 15 minutes deciding
how badly I wanted to risk a slimy fall into the water below, and finally
decided that finding another route around the waterfall was best. I crossed to
the left side of the creek and climbed up the ridgeline, following below the
line of cliffs over which Pine Ridge Falls flows. The higher I hiked, the
clearer the views into the Clark’s Creek valley became – and by the time I
reached a break in the cliff-line safe enough for me to climb, I was near the
top of the ridge.
I made my way between the two
rock buttresses forming the cliff and was finally on the other side of the
waterfall. I had already gained significant elevation, and I could tell that
the ridge still above me was much clearer above me. So I made the decision to eschew
my planned hike to reach all the falls of Devil Fork and climb higher up the
ridge simply to see what was there.
It was cool in the shade of
most of the hike, but the dense canopy of the valley gave way to exposed rock
and heath shrubbery higher up the ridge and the air was thick with humidity heated
by the sun (which seemed awfully close). After a few breaks to rest my aching
knees, I reached the top of the knob and was presented gorgeous views.
I spent quite a while enjoying
the views at the top, welcoming the breeze, and replenishing the many
electrolytes spent to get me there. I finally decided that, if I wanted to
complete the next portion of my original plan, then I needed to get moving. The
hike down the ridge was far more perilous than the hike up – in a calamitous
mixture of haste and clumsiness, I stumbled my way back down to Devil Fork,
directly above Pine Ridge falls.
The hike up the creek wasn’t as
steep as I expected, but it was confusing. The area is crossed by several old
logging roads, which the trail only intermittently follows, and I spent half my
time course-correcting back toward the creek. The sun had started to set on the
narrow valley carved by the creek – the air was cooler and my pace quickened in
an effort to reach the next waterfall before dusk.
As I kept my failing eyes fixed
on the creek well-ahead of me and my ears focused on the volume of its flow, I topped
a short hill to see a long, white streak in the distance. As I got closer, the
walls of the gorge amplified the sound and my eyes focused on the shaded
waterfall. I had finally made it to the next destination, Josiah Falls.
The trail to the waterfall lies
farther up the ridge than the access to the falls at creek-level. My descent to
the bottom of the falls was as clumsy as my hike down from the top of the knob
earlier, and it ended with a muddy, uncontrolled slide into a deep pool. I was
waist-deep in water that was not-surprisingly icy for early spring, and I
quickly hopped from the pool, rock-to-rock, perhaps thinking that if I moved
quickly enough the water would fly from my boots and pants. That didn’t happen,
but in my haste, I arrived at the small waterfalls found below Josiah Falls.
It’s only a few feet along a
makeshift path between boulders and under some laurel to the bottom of the
falls. This part of the gorge is crowded with rocks and brush, with laurel
hells flanking the creek on either side, but the base of the waterfall is
completely open and clear. Josiah Falls is a steep, 30-feet high cascade and
was a sight for strained eyes.
By the time I started the hike
back to the trailhead, the sun had set further. It was hard to see the trail,
but fortunately the trail from Pine Ridge Falls to Clarks Creek Road lies in a
wider valley and was well lit – it was like walking out of a movie theater into
a bright parking lot.
I was disappointed that I didn’t
reach the other waterfalls higher up Devil Fork, but I find relief insomuch
that my wandering wasn’t wasted. It was a great hike and I plan to finish it
soon.
Thanks for reading!
Monday, March 31, 2014
Whitehouse Mountain Cliffs, TN
There’s
something wonderful in the feeling of standing atop a mountain; it’s hard to
describe to someone who hasn’t felt it. And I don’t mean stepping out of your
car at an easily accessible road-side overlook. Or, to some extent, those
commonplace mountain-top views accessed by so many from a trail worn deep into
the earth.
A
rare few know the joy which comes from once looking at a precipice
from the bottom, wondering what the view from the top is like, then discovering something
wonderful, after a trek through something terrible – something you once
imagined at the extent of your imagination, but found it to be wanting in comparison to creation –
that’s amazing.
It’s
no wonder we’ve assigned such positive connotations to mountain-tops and their
related descriptions – acme, zenith, pinnacle. The feeling of truly being an
insignificant part of such a powerful landscape – the wind shoving you, the sun
burning you, nothing above you but air – it’s not simply special, it’s
addictive.
This
feeling, the draw of these scenes, is the impetus of most of my hikes. You
faithful readers and my friends know of my love for exposed, rugged landscapes. Though I’m an attentive driver, I can’t help but become
distracted driving through our region, constantly scanning the mountains both
near and far for craggy outcroppings and cliffs.
It
was on a road-trip to Asheville, NC with my dear friend Ben that I first caught
a glimpse of the cliffs featured in today’s post, Whitehouse Mountain Cliffs.
And I’ve posted before about an attempt to reach the lofty outcroppings – an
attempt that was ultimately rained out and left me with a dead car battery. You
can read that post here.
The cliffs, as I first saw them
|
The
cliffs are an example of the rugged terrain surrounding them in the Rocky Fork wilderness. Since that hike
several months ago, I’ve explored a lot of Rocky Fork – but still yet a small
fraction – and with each hike, I enter the wilderness through the main gate,
travelling an old road adopted as the main trail. Not ½-mile into any hike
along this route, the creek and the trail are flanked by tall cliffs, those of
Whitehouse Mountain to the north, and a smaller set called Black Stacks which jut from Flint Mountain
to the south. The more I hiked the trail between the
towering cliffs, the more invested I became in the thought of one day standing
atop the cliffs of Whitehouse Mountain. And on a recent, beautiful Saturday,
that thought became a reality.
I got
my usual, later-than-planned start to my hike – the work-week induced fugue
lingers even into Saturday mornings, and for a brief time, my yearning for the
outdoors is dwarfed by an overwhelming desire to pull the covers to my chin and
snooze. On my way, I stopped by Bojangles for some breakfast; I’ve almost made a habit of stopping at Bojangles before hitting the trail – it started because Bojangles is the only place
still serving breakfast by the time I manage to get moving (see laziness noted
above).
I
didn’t feel as guilty about starting so late – around 11:00am – as I knew the
hike wasn’t terribly long. I had a good idea of where I was going, I knew the
terrain well, and I had a good map to assist with any confusion and a big knife
to clear the way, if needed.
The
hike began at the main gate at Rocky Fork – the first ½-mile follows the main,
well-maintained trail/road leading into the Rocky Fork wilderness. It’s a
level, pleasant hike. The cliffs rise from the side of a knob and peer over the
trail and main stream, and to reach them requires a route around the side, up
the back of the knob, then a descent to the top of the cliffs. On the map and
in my mind, it seemed straightforward. After half-a-mile of gentle strolling, the
spur trail splits from the main trail, up the side of the knob. As I climbed up
the intersection between the two trails, I spotted a young, dead tree an inch
in diameter – perfect for a walking stick. I unsheathed my knife and hacked it
to size, and began to propel myself up toward the back side of the knob.
The
trail is narrow in some places, shrouded by laurel in others, but is otherwise
clear and groomed. There were a few pieces of ribbon tied to limbs along the
route, just in case I missed the trail in front of me. I could tell that the
trail followed what was once an old road, likely a logging road, which had been
acquisitioned by nature to serve as a creek in times of inclement weather.
By
the time I reached the back of the knob and the next spur trail that leads to
its top, I was sweating and my heart was pounding. I took a brief water-break
on the saddle of the ridgeline and changed into a t-shirt I happened to have in
my pack. I knew the next section would be the most strenuous, so I cinched everything
tight, drank down plenty of water (both to hydrate and to decrease the weight
in my pack). The trail up the back, toward the top of the knob was less clear –
admittedly, I lost it in a few places – but the occasional trail ribbon helped
me to right my route.
Once
I reached the nose of the back side of the knob, I knew I was in the right
place. There were survey markings everywhere, on trees, staked into the ground,
metal signs, etc. And a trail clearly followed the spine of the knob straight up to
the top.
Frozen Knob in the background |
I
gained elevation quickly hiking up the backside of the knob – there were no
switchbacks, and the grade was such that it was difficult to stand still. The
only thing that helped to keep me upright – other than the occasional
old-growth tree and my walking stick – was my forward momentum. My legs
churched and I dug my boots into the ground with each exasperated step, and I
made it to the top of the knob somehow without needing a break.
The
top of the knob is flat and mostly bald, covered only by thick heath and the
occasional stubborn, stunted tree. The area at the top isn’t very large, but
the trail led me beyond the initial, apparent peak, onto a more exposed section
– and then I knew I had reached the top.
The
view from the peak was fantastic. 360-degree views. Clear skies. The wind was
strong, but calming. I could see Frozen Knob behind me, Flint Mountain staring
in front of me, all the way from the Unaka Range distant in the east, to the
Bald Mountains, flanking the Rocky Fork wilderness to the west and south.
Most of the the Rocky Fork drainage |
Flint Gap
|
Despite
my giggliness and awestruck gaze, I reminded myself that the top of the knob
wasn’t my destination. So after a few pictures and a quick break, I began the
steep descent of the rocky knob, down to the top of the cliffs. In my
excitement, I forgot my walking stick.
It
was difficult to keep my footing – rocks ranging in size from baseballs to
basketballs covered the ground, and the greatest splendor of east Tennessee
served as a magnificent distraction. It was dangerously steep, and I crawled in
some places, slid on my butt in others, just to make it to the next level. The
open face of the knob was such that it dropped in large steps – the going was
very steep for a while, nearly vertical for a short bit, then very steep again.
My
overloaded knees were burning, and it seemed that no matter how far down I
climbed, I wouldn’t reach the top of the cliffs. Suddenly, the face of the knob
leveled out near an unexpected band of trees, and I could see exposed rocks
jutting into the air between the trunks. My heart began to pound with
excitement.
As I
squeezed my way between the briar-filled heath and the few trees, I could see
that rocks began to dominate the side of the knob all around me. I slid down a
tree-shrouded flat rock onto a pile of leaves, and I knew I was at the tip-top
of the cliffs.
My
exploration of the cliffs was one of inhibited excitement. It was so satisfying
to stand atop the large, rocky pinnacles I had seen from both below and afar,
yet I knew I had to maintain focus. The few faces of the cliff-line that
weren’t awkwardly positioned rock were steep and unstable – I had to carefully
plan every step, and some places required rather nerve-wracking leaps
rock-to-rock. It took the better part of an hour to scale the entirety of the
top of the cliffs – after a certain distance, it was a sheer vertical drop.
Each picture I took was taken from a very carefully-negotiated stance.
Just
in time for my arrival at the edge of the cliffs, the wind picked up
considerably. The terrain itself, aided by the gusts blowing the little
vegetation into my stride, made it much easier to sit than stand or walk. So I
found a relatively flat rock and took in the views that fell far short of what
my imagination had conjured.
Black Stacks |
Rocky Fork, far below |
The point on Interstate-26 from which I first saw the cliffs |
I’m a
lazy hiker, and I often get myself into the most trouble by taking shortcuts.
Take my advice – if you’re given the choice, stick to the trail. Better the
devil you know.
I
could see Rocky Fork in a few windows through the canopy below, and dreading a
hike back up the knob to the trail, I decided to descend the rest of the way
down to the main trail. I took my time and worked my way along the cliff-line,
scrambling my way to the point where the rocks of the cliffs met the ground of
the knob itself.
After
another harrowing hour of cursing my laziness, I made it to the edge of the
cliff-line and began to walk down the side of the knob. The going wasn’t nearly
as easy as I had envisioned – the side of the knob was just as steep as the
terrain I had found at the top, only none of the rocks were stable. Each step
was on rocks that immediately rolled away, taking other rocks with them. After
stumbling 100 yards through the boulder-field, I had enough – I hiked across
the knob to a more wooded section which I correctly hoped was less-rocky.
I
traded the instability of that boulder field for the instability of
18-inch-thick leaf piles and a maze of laurel. I laid on my back and side and
slid beneath most of the laurel, reaching irresponsible speeds, arresting my
fall by grabbing the occasional tree (some of which broke free in my hand). The
further I slid and crawled, the more level the knob and more open the woods
became. I slid the last several feet unimpeded, and shot off the side of the
knob onto the main trail.
It
was a beautiful day of hiking in one of our region’s most beautiful areas – I
couldn’t be more pleased from such a successful (and exciting) hike. As I
walked back to my 4Runner, I ran into Joseph, my good friend from church, and a
group of his friends who had been hiking deeper in the Rocky Fork wilderness.
It was good to share with him where I had been and how to get there – and I was
relieved to have finally checked this goal off my list.
Thanks
for reading!
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